Lyse Doucet: Under fragile ceasefire, Iranians wonder if US deal can be done
Lyse Doucet: Under Fragile Ceasefire, Iranians Question if US Deal Can Be Reached
A Fragile Truce and the Weight of War
Amid the snow-draped mountain ranges bordering the northwestern Iranian plains, the arrival of spring has sparked almond trees into blooming. A tenuous pause in hostilities has seen more vehicles traverse the highways, and more citizens return to the country’s heart. As we await departure at a Turkish crossing, a grey-haired banker recounts his time with his son in Turkey—a month spent enduring the chill of late winter. “In my northern city, the Israeli and American strikes primarily targeted military installations,” he explains, offering a personal account of five weeks of conflict, interrupted by a two-week truce set to expire soon.
“I’m a bit scared,” murmurs an elderly woman in a headscarf, her expression etched with concern. She laments the toll on young Iranians, from the destruction of crowded neighborhoods to the lingering threat of Basij paramilitary forces. “It’s all in God’s hands,” she adds, gazing upward as if seeking reassurance.
The Road to Tehran
As we navigate the 12-hour journey to the capital, the absence of functioning airports forces a detour through winding rural roads. The collapse of a key bridge linking Tabriz to Tehran via Zanjan, struck by missile fire last week, adds to the challenge. Along the route, the memory of Trump’s warning resurfaces—a promise to dismantle every Iranian bridge within an hour. “We don’t want to do that,” he told Fox Business News, yet his threat to obliterate infrastructure remains a shadow over the path.
On this day, the battlefield’s reach is evident. The Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps barracks on the outskirts of Tabriz lie in ruins, their pillars now resembling concrete teeth beneath a tattered flag. Other military sites, police stations, and factories have also been targeted, underscoring the conflict’s reach beyond military zones.
Stories from the Frontlines
A young woman in a bright red puffer jacket and knitted hat declares with conviction, “Iran will never surrender its control of the Strait of Hormuz.” Her words echo the broader determination of those who see the war as a fight for sovereignty. Meanwhile, a late winter snowstorm on the Turkish side of the border contrasts with the thawing landscape of Iran, where the ceasefire has allowed a brief respite.
“Of course, the ceasefire won’t hold,” she insists, her tone firm. “It’s all about the Strait of Hormuz.” Her perspective highlights the enduring tension between Iran and its adversaries, even as the immediate conflict pauses.
Echoes of Conflict and Civilian Impact
The targeting of civilian areas has drawn sharp criticism from legal experts, citing potential breaches of international humanitarian law and war crimes. While the US and Israel assert their focus on military targets, the destruction of residential neighborhoods and the threat to Basij forces reveal a different narrative. The caravanserai restaurant, a centuries-old travelers’ inn with stained-glass windows and vaulted ceilings, serves as a reminder of Iran’s ancient heritage, now overshadowed by the war’s scars.
Women’s rights remain a pivotal issue, even as theocracy’s priorities shift. Some don veils and scarves, while others defy tradition, bare-headed and unapologetic. This defiance is a legacy of the 2022-2023 Woman Life Freedom protests, which challenged strict modesty rules. Yet, the current moment sees these concerns secondary to the urgent need to stabilize the nation.
Leaders in the Shadows
Highways now bear banners honoring the three supreme leaders since the 1979 revolution: Ayatollah Khomeini, Ayatollah Khamenei, and his son Mojtaba Khamenei. The latter, reportedly injured in an attack on 28 February, has remained out of public view, though his influence persists. As discussions over a nuclear deal and regional tensions continue, his role in shaping a new political doctrine looms large, even as the fragile ceasefire remains under threat.
