Lyse Doucet: Under fragile ceasefire, Iranians wonder if US deal can be done

Lyse Doucet: Under fragile ceasefire, Iranians wonder if US deal can be done

Spring has pushed almond trees into a profuse bloom across the rugged plains of northwestern Iran, where snow-draped ridges frame the landscape. A tentative pause in hostilities has allowed more vehicles to traverse the highways, drawing people back to their cities after months of conflict. Amid the quiet, a grey-haired banker shared his experience of sheltering in Turkey for a month. “In my northern city, Israeli and American strikes focused on military installations, not homes or civilian buildings,” he said, standing in the departure hall at a Turkish border crossing where winter’s chill lingers.

At a roadside eatery, a woman in a vibrant red puffer jacket and knitted cap asserted, “The ceasefire won’t last. Iran will never relinquish control of the Strait of Hormuz.” Her words echoed the tension in the air as travelers navigated the detour through rural roads, forced by the collapse of the Tabriz-Tehran bridge via Zanjan under missile fire just days prior. The journey to Tehran, now reliant on winding country paths, seemed to draw attention to every remaining bridge, glinting under the spring sun.

“I’m a bit scared,” said an elderly woman in a headscarf, her expression etched with concern. She lamented the toll on young Iranians, from the destruction of residential areas to the presence of Basij paramilitary forces patrolling the streets. “It’s all in God’s hands,” she added, lifting her gaze skyward.

As the convoy cleared Turkish customs and entered the Islamic Republic, a man beside the author remarked, “Trump will never let Iran rest. He wants to swallow us whole!” This sentiment lingered as the group reflected on the US president’s recent warning to Fox Business News, where he claimed, “We could obliterate every bridge in Iran within an hour,” alongside all power plants. Yet, he emphasized, “We don’t want to do that.”

The targeting of civilian sites has sparked debate among legal experts, highlighting potential breaches of international law. Despite the US and Israel’s insistence that strikes were aimed at military targets, the flattened barracks of the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps in Tabriz stood as a stark reminder. A weathered flag hung over the ruins, its presence a symbol of resilience amid the ruins. Factories and police stations in the region also bore the scars of recent attacks.

As the war rages on, the focus shifts to urgent matters for Iran’s theocracy. New banners line the highways, displaying portraits of three key figures since the 1979 revolution: Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, who was fatally struck in the conflict’s opening days on 28 February, and his son Mojtaba Khamenei, reportedly gravely injured in the same assault. Though absent from public view since, Mojtaba is said to be shaping Iran’s evolving political and security strategy.

Behind closed doors, a 21-hour meeting in Islamabad revealed renewed efforts to bridge decades of enmity over the nuclear program. Vice-President JD Vance led the US delegation, engaging with Iranian officials including Parliamentary Speaker Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf, a staunch hardliner. The talks came against a backdrop of shifting priorities, with the fate of the Strait of Hormuz now as critical as the war itself.